What to Expect During Semana Santa in Spain

semana santa in spain
Discover the emotion, tradition, and symbolism of Semana Santa in Spain through the eyes of a non-religious expat living in Andalusia.
semana santa in spain

What to Expect During Semana Santa in Spain

Semana Santa (Holy Week) is one of Spain’s most powerful and moving traditions. 

As a Brit, it was certainly a shock when I first experienced it. I remember it well. It was April 2017 and I was waitressing on the packed terrace of a restaurant opposite the church in the square of Cómpeta, Málaga. Suddenly loud, repetitive drumming started and people dressed in white cloaks with tall pointy white hats came marching out of the church… you can only imagine what was going through my young mind! 

Where the heck have I moved to!? What is this?! Racism? Witchcraft? Where am I!? Do I need to leave running?! 

 

No, the white cloaks and tall, pointed hats worn during Semana Santa processions in Spain are part of the traditional attire of the Nazarenos, members of religious brotherhoods (cofradías) who participate in the processions. These garments have deep historical and symbolic significance, representing penance, humility, and anonymity in the Catholic tradition.

 

Capirote (Tall, Pointed Hood):

The capirote is the tall, conical hood worn by the Nazarenos. It serves as a symbol of penance and was originally designed to allow the wearer to apologise for their sins anonymously.

  • The idea behind the pointed shape is to direct the wearer’s prayers toward heaven.
  • The capirote also covers the face, reinforcing the theme of humility and personal reflection.

 

White Cloaks (Túnicas):

  • The túnica (robe) is usually long and flowing, reaching the feet. While white is common, different brotherhoods wear different colours depending on their symbolism.
  • White robes often represent purity and resurrection, while other colours (such as purple or black) symbolise mourning and penitence.

 

Once my Muslim co-worker reassured me and explained to me the significance of it all, I calmed down and went back to waiting on tables. 

Whether you’re religious or not, experiencing this week-long spectacle is unforgettable. 

Across the country, streets fill with processions, the scent of incense lingers in the air, and the deep, solemn beats of the drums create an atmosphere like no other. I am not religious, but I have grown to love this week more and more as I get older and find it really quite moving after 8 years. 

Semana Santa is a time for community, tradition, and, of course, food. From indulgent sweet treats to classic dishes eaten only at this time of year, Holy Week is as much about flavour as it is about faith.

Popular Semana Santa Food (I’ve lived in Málaga and Granada so there may be other foods in other regions of Spain!):

Torrijas: A Semana Santa classic. A sweet delicacy made with bread soaked in milk, egg, and honey that will win you over.

Remojón granadino: A fresh and flavourful salad that combines cod, orange, onion, and olives. A perfect starter to whet your appetite.

Habas con jamón: A traditional dish from Granada’s cuisine, perfect for sharing. Enjoy its rich and comforting flavour.

Choto al ajillo: A tender kid goat stew with garlic and spices that will surprise you with its texture and aroma.

Tortitas de Bacalao: Crispy cod fritters, a savoury and flavourful bite perfect for Semana Santa.

Buñuelos: Light, airy dough balls, deep-fried and dusted in sugar – basically doughnuts!

Torrijas food for semana santa in spain

 

The History and Meaning Behind Semana Santa

Semana Santa has been a major part of Spanish culture since the Middle Ages, when religious brotherhoods organised processions to tell the story of the Passion of Christ. 

Over the centuries, these processions have become intricate displays of devotion, with members carrying enormous, beautifully adorned floats (pasos) depicting religious figures and scenes. These figures all come out on a certain day and tell the story of Easter that we all know over the course of the week.

Some processions are sombre and silent, while others are full of music, emotion, and dramatic singing. 

The Friday procession in my Spanish “hometown” of Cómpeta is an experience. The women dress in black to represent that they’re in mourning for Jesus and some even cry and crawl through the streets, appearing to be in genuine distress. No matter where you are, witnessing these events is truly an immersive experience.

 

Semana Santa 2025: Key Dates to Remember

Semana Santa moves each year depending on the Christian calendar. In 2025, the key dates are:

  • Palm Sunday (Domingo de Ramos) – 13th April 2025
  • Holy Monday (Lunes Santo) – 14th April 2025
  • Holy Tuesday (Martes Santo) – 15th April 2025
  • Holy Wednesday (Miércoles Santo) – 16th April 2025
  • Holy Thursday (Jueves Santo) NATIONAL BANK HOLIDAY – 17th April 2025 
  • Good Friday (Viernes Santo) NATIONAL BANK HOLIDAY – 18th April 2025
  • Holy Saturday (Sábado Santo) – 19th April 2025
  • Easter Sunday (Domingo de Resurrección) – 20th April 2025
  • Easter Monday (Lunes de Pascua) – 21st April 2025 (a bank holiday in some regions like Valencia)

Jueves santo and viernes santo are both national bank holidays in Spain and you can expect shops to be open different hours, if not closed altogether. 

Bars and Restaurants however will be filled to the brim and if you haven’t already booked your table, you might struggle to eat out this week! People started booking their tables before Christmas in the bars I worked in in Cómpeta!

Where to Experience Semana Santa in Spain

Málaga – The Most Famous Semana Santa Celebrations

Málaga’s Semana Santa is one of the most famous. People come from all over the world to experience it. You need to book accommodation months in advance and get your spot hours before the processions start as the city fills up, roads close and you can barely move! 

It’s full of energy, with grand processions, military parades, and a unique tradition – each year, a prisoner is symbolically freed in honour of an 18th-century royal decree.

Here, you’ll see some of the largest floats in Spain, known as tronos, carried by HUNDREDS of people. These massive floats can weigh between 2,000 kg (4,400 lbs) and over 5,000 kg (11,000 lbs)!! To truly soak in the experience, grab a coffee and a pestiño while watching the processions from a local café.

Seville – Passion, beauty and Tradition 

semana santa in Seville

When people think of Semana Santa, they often think of Seville. This city hosts the most famous and elaborate processions, with 60 religious brotherhoods filling the streets. The most dramatic event is La Madrugá, which takes place overnight on Good Friday, drawing thousands of spectators.

If you’re in Seville for Semana Santa, prepare for intense crowds, moving performances, and an atmosphere that will stay with you forever. And don’t forget to grab some torrijas from a local bakery – it’s a staple during this time.

 

Other Unmissable Semana Santa Celebrations

  • Granada: The mix of processions against the backdrop of the Alhambra is breathtaking.
  • Zamora: Some of Spain’s oldest and most solemn processions take place here, with a medieval atmosphere.
  • Valladolid: Known for its silent processions and impressive religious sculptures.
  • Cuenca: A quieter but deeply emotional Semana Santa experience, especially the dawn Camino del Calvario procession.

 

Witness Semana Santa Like a Local

Semana Santa in Spain is unlike anything else. Whether you’re in a big city or a small village, you’ll feel the weight of tradition and devotion in the air. It’s a time of reflection, celebration, and of course, trying some seriously good food.

If you’re planning to experience Semana Santa for yourself, be prepared for crowds, book your accommodation and tables well in advance, and most importantly, take it all in. This is Spain at its most intense, beautiful, and deeply traditional.

Fancy seeing it for yourself? Let’s make it happen!

Share the Post:

Related Posts